Accent Arts Logo R1   Accent Arts

Accent Arts LLC was formed in 2006 to do business in the state of Washington for marketing and selling our photography and glass art work.  In 2017, we closed the business and no longer sell our art work.   We now practice our crafts for our oun pleaser.  We hope you like images of our work and that it might inspire you.

Sincerely,

Bill and Louise LaFever

 

Filters for Landscape Photography

 

There are only three lens filters that I use for Landscape Photography.

The first, and most used filter, is a graduated neutral density filter developed by Galen Rowell. It is a small plastic filter that has a dark neutral area at the top and gradually reduces from 2/f stops to zero by the center of the filter. This filter can be slipped into a holder over your lens or hand held. I use the hand held method as I can move the filter up and down to reduce the bright sky or water. You can also purchase these filter in a ring style, but I prefer the flat square style as it give me more options in the field. The advantage of this filter is that you can darken a bright sky so that you get more detail in the clouds that otherwise would be blown out. You can do the same thing with a body of water or a sandy beach. The neutral density part of filter has no affect on the colors. This filter can be used on a SLR or a Point & Shot camera with equal affect.

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The second filter is an adjustable Polarized filter. It screws onto my SLR lens when I want to take the glare of the water so that you can see into the water. Because the one I use is adjustable, I can increase or decrease the amount of polarization as required at the time.  The rocks under the water below could not be seen without a polized filter.

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Care & Handling of your Photographs

The Image

I use no filters, save an occasional polarizer, Graduated Neutral Density or Neutral Density filters. I have used several lenses and cameras to compose the image, as I view it. My Cameras and lenses are the only tools used in my craft, but the beauty I see and capture with them is the art that I love to create and share.

The prints

It has been my experience that if I turn the printing over to a photo laboratory, I can no longer control what they do with my image. Sometimes it works and sometimes it does not. Therefore, I now control the printing process from the time I press the shutter button on the camera until the print is ready to be delivered.

All my prints are done with museum quality, archival Fine Art or Photography papers with carbon or pigment inks to stand the test of time. These materials have been tested to not fade or change in color for a range of 60 to more then 200 years depending on the environment the image is displayed or stored in. This meets or exceeds the standard chemistry processes used.

Matting and Framing

Subtle, tasteful, and complementary is my approach to traditional framing. The following is a guide that I recommend when matting and framing an image.

The top mat must be acid free and may be off-white or some other neutral toned color that goes well with the colors in the image. It may have a black or white core. If a second mat is used under the top mat, it should also be acid free and show a narrow accent color under the top mat. This under mat color is chosen to complement the image. A V-groove maybe cut into a colored top mat of large size to add to the display. The images must be mounted on an acid free mounting board as are all the mats.

I prefer a frame to be a quiet, visual border between the mat and the wall, complementary, quiet, and not noticed for the most part. Several subtle colors are used, and they are chosen to complement the image. However, a black or smoke gray frame goes well with a Black and White image.

The frame should be sealed on the back with a piece of acid free paper to keep dust and other small critters out.